La noche antes de Bagan, Myanmar

Después de comprar los boletos de Mandalay a Bagan por $12 dólares cada uno tomamos nuestro transporte – y de vuelta al hotel a través de las calles mal formadas de Mandalay. Vimos una mezcla de pobreza con la alegría del Budismo. Monjes vestidos en colores que dan cierta vida , melancólica a la ciudad. Esperanza. Colores rojo marrón plantan la sabiduría de los siglos en medio de las calles varicientas. Como glóbulos en una sangre anémica.

Para nuestra sorpresa nuestros conductores adivinaron nuestra hambre y nos llevaron a un restaurante. El lugar estaba alumbrado con luces fluorescentes y tenia mas staff que un concierto de Shakira. Solo dos mesas ocupadas.

Pagamos a los conductores. Cinco mil chat cada uno. Un aumento de 4000 al precio que ellos nos pidieron. Mil chat es equivalente a noventa centavos de dólar. En Myanmar el salario es de trescientos dólares al año.

No ordenamos nada pero la comida fluía. Arroz con curry y seis diferentes salsas de acompañamiento. Y el arroz continúa viniendo sin parar. Si tu plato esta vació te lo llenan nuevamente sin cargo extra. Refill estilo Myanmar.

Aceite, aceite y más aceite en la comida. Las dos cenas fueron otros cinco mil chat servido por un staff de ocho para un restaurante de siete mesas y sin clientes.

Al salir nuestro conductor estaba esperándonos. Sorpresa! Nos ofreció llevarnos al hotel pero estábamos a dos cuadras. No lo tomamos pero el pedaleo junto a nosotros con una sonrisa ligera y real. Masticando y escupiendo la mezcla de tabaco que ha tornado sus labios y dientes que me recordaba a la pulpa de un tomate de árbol.

Nos ofreció recogernos en el hotel a las cinco de la mañana del siguiente día para llevarnos al ferry por un precio justo – $5 dólares. El carro de su hermano haría la carrera. Nos despedimos a las diez de la noche. Para ese entonces mis ojos y mi mente estaba escapando de la impresión inicial y entendiendo lo que estaba detrás de este país con una tristeza alegre y divina.

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